Oregon has been touted as having
the best pinot noir outside of
Burgundy. MyWinePal went to Burgundy
last fall, and now visited Oregon to see how the
two wine regions compare.
In Oregon, most of my time was spent around the
McMinnville, Dundee
and Salem areas. The landscape
was quite varied, with some flatter sloped agricultural
areas, but most of the areas with vineyards that
I visited were quite hilly as you can see in the
top picture of the Archery Summit
Vineyard. Burgundy was not quite as hilly as these
areas.
Another difference was the varietals between the
two regions. In Burgundy you primarily have pinot
noir and chardonnay, while in Oregon, any grape
could in theory be planted. Pinot noir,
pinot gris, merlot, cabernet sauvignon,
and cabernet franc were quite plentiful
in this area of Oregon.
Which wineries did I visit?
- Redhawk Vineyard and Winery
- Sokol Blosser
- Argyle
- Rex Hill
- Maysara Winery
- Cubanisimo Vineyards
- Cherry Hill Winery
- Archery Summit
This may not seem like too many wineries, but the
roads are quite windy so it takes a while to get
from one winery to another, plus I was staying on
the Coast, which made it 1 to 1.5hrs to get to the
wineries and the same amount of time to get back
to my hotel at the end of the day. If you want to
visit the wineries around McMinnville / Dundee /
Salem, I recommend staying in the area to save on
driving.
Each of these wineries had pinot noir, but also
many other varietals, and stories to go along with
them. Here is a bit of information about each winery.
Redhawk Vineyard and Winery is
located in Salem. Redhawk produces primarily red
wines. They do have a pinot gris, and a chardonnay,
but the chardonnay is being phased out. A fun wine
that they produce is the Grateful Red Pinot
Noir 2007 ($14). Jerry
Garcia fans rejoice. This wine came from a blend
of pinot noir grapes from 8 vineyards. Cherry nose
with light body and tannins. A bit more fullbodied
was the Pinot Noir Vintner's Reserve 2006
($30). 2006 was a hot year in Oregon so all wineries,
Redhawk included, produced very full-bodied, lush
red wines. This wine was medium red in the glass.
Cassis and raspberry on the nose. Very full bodied
with raspberry and black cherry flavours. Another
interesting wine from Redhawk, was their Tempranillo
Dessert Wine 2006 ($24). Tempranillo is
a classic red grape from Spain, usually blended
with grenache or carignan. This is Redhawk's take
on a classic port. Opaque purple in the glass, this
wine had a porty, stewed fruit nose. Chocolate and
blueberry flavours on the palate.
Sokol Blosser is located in the
Dundee Hills. They were at the last Vancouver
Playhouse International Wine Fair, where
I did enjoy tasting their pinot noir and pinot gris.
There are always wines that are only available for
purchase at the winery, which brought me to their
doorstep. One of the white wines I enjoyed was the
Dundee Hills Cuvee Pinot Gris 2008
($18). This wine was produced with 50% estate grapes.
It had apple and grapefuit aromas. On the palate
it was very creamy with apricot and peach flavours
and a bit of spice. One of the red wines that I
enjoyed was the Dundee Hills Pinot Noir
2006 ($38). 85% of the grapes are from
their estate. This wine was light garnet in colour.
The aromas grew each time I swirled this wine. I
smelled, strawberries, smoke, vanilla, cherry and
spices. It was light bodied, with cherry and strawberry
flavours. Medium length with a cherry finish.
Argyle is another well-known producer
of wines in Oregon, especially sparkling wines.
Argyle's winery is located in the town of Dundee.
Their winery was once a hazelnut drying facility,
which gave rise to their "Nuthouse" line
of wines. I was also informed by a server that in
Oregon where they produce their grapes, a change
in 80ft of elevation extends a grape's ripening
time by 1 week. So their premium grapes are located
in their highest elevation vineyards. Their Nuthouse
Pinot Noir 2005 ($60), was garnet in colour.
Blueberry and strawberry nose. Smooth, full fruit,
cherries and nicely integrated oak on the palate.
On the sparkling side, their Brut
2005 ($30), had a bready, citrus,
oakmeal nose. Fine bubble. Citrus and pear flavours,
off-dry.
Rex Hill is located in Newberg,
which is north east of Dundee. They have a biodynamically
farmed estate vineyard, but they do purchase grapes
from other vineyards. Jim and Loie Maresh planted
their 30 acre vineyard in 1970, becoming the fifth
vineyard planted in Oregon. Their Rex Hill
Oregon Chardonnay 2006 ($16) had aromas
of pear and green apple. Although not oaked, it
had a light oak flavour, along with floral, apple
and citurs flavours. Their Rex Hill Maresh
Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 ($52), was light
garnet in colour. Aromas of light violet, cherry
and spice. Medium body, with black cherry, flowers,
and bramble flavours.
I caught the winemaker from Maysara Winery
as she was closing the tasting for the day, so had
an impromptu tasting outside. The winemaker, Tahmiene
Momtazi, was quite informative. She let me know
that a block of the vines outside of the winery
that I could see were non-grafted rootstock. So
far no phylloxera louse has infested these vines.
This winery is also biodynamic as much as possible.
I unfortunately did not have a tasting sheet to
make notes, as we were outside on a picnic table,
but I can tell you that all their pinot noirs were
very nice.
Cubanisimo Vineyards is based in
Salem and has a big following in Florida, which
has a large Cuban community. A rose I enjoyed from
this winery was the Rosado de Pinot Noir
2007. This wine was light pink salmon in
colour. Raspberry aroma. Raspberry and peach flavours,
with good acid. Off-dry with a grapefruit finish.
Their Pinot Noir 2007 was also
notable. This one was medium cherry red. Tobacco
and cherry nose. Currant, smoke, cherry aromas and
light tannins on the palate.
The Cherry Hill Winery produces
all their own pinot noir grapes. The owners have
a dog called Miss Daisy. Her breed is called "Papillon".
The dog enjoys eating grapes, so the owners have
named one of their wines after this breed of dog.
The Papillon 2006 Estate Pinot Noir
($22) was medium garnet in colour. Cherry, oak,
and violet aromas. Cherry and violet flavours, with
a medium length. Their Poverty Road Pinot
Grigio 2007 ($16) was aptly named after
the long gravel road that the owners built up to
their winery, which made them poor at the time.
This wine was medium straw in colour. Nice peach
and green fruit aromas. Medium acidity, peach flavour
and medium body.
Last but not least was the Archery Summit
winery, located just southwest of Dundee. This winery
is serious about Pinot Noir. That is all they produce.
All these wines are in the premium to super premium
range. I was able to try 4 of their wines today
and they were all fantastic. My two favourite wines
were the Renegade Ridge Estate 2006, and the Red
Hills Estate 2006. The Renegade Ridge Estate
2006 ($85) was medium reddish purple in
the glass. It had a smokey, currant, cherry nose.
On the palate there were smokey, currant and cherry
flavours, with silky tannins and a long finish.
The wine is ready to drink now, but could improve
with cellaring over the next 3-8 years. The Red
Hills Estate 2006 ($85) was more of a purple
with some red colour in the glass. It had a strawberry,
cherry, confectionary sweet nose. On the palate
it was very smooth, with cherry, black currant flavours
and a vanilla finish. This wine could also cellar
for 3-8 years.
So how did the Oregonian pinot noirs stack
up against the wines of Burgundy? I'd like
to say that each showed their own terroir.
There were ranges of wines from a basic table wine
to a premium reserve wine from both regions as well.
The best thing to do is to try wines from both regions
and see which you prefer, or enjoy both on their
own terms.