Burgundy
produces arguably the the most characterful wines in
the world. For those who don't know, Burgundy is famous
primarily for
Pinot Noir and for
Chardonnay,
but also is known for
Gamay (which
makes Nouveau Boujoulais). The region is divided into
five major areas:
Côte d'Or (divided
into
Côte de Beaune and
Côte
de Nuits),
Chablis,
Côte
Chalonnaise, the
Maconnais
and
Beaujolais. My focus on this part
of the trip was the Côte d'Or.
I drove the
Route des Grand Vins in
search of a bottle of Burgundian pinot noir for the
cellar. In Cote de Nuits, the primary stop was in
Gevrey-Chambertin.
The pinot noir wines of this area are viewed as being
feminine in style, while those from
Pommard
as being very masculine in style. In Gevrey-Chambertin,
I visited several small producers, in particular
Gerard
Quivy and
Philippe Leclerc.
I particularly enjoyed the wines from Philippe Leclerc.
I was able to enjoy the 2003 and 2005 vintage of the
Premier Cru les Cazetiers, and the
2003 vintage of the
Premier Cru la Combe aux
Moines. The 2003 les Cazetiers came from a
very hot year making a wine with exceptionally ripe
fruit flavours. The 2005 les Cazetiers was not yet ready
for drinking, but amazingly had the same flavour characteristics,
which Leclerc attributes to the soil / terroir of the
vineyard plot used for this wine. The
la Combe
aux Moines had a leather and cherry nose. It
had good black fruit flavour and medium tannins. The
finish was very long. I'd say this wine needs 2-3 years
more aging before drinking to smooth out the tannins
a bit.
Through the Cote de Beaune, most visits were to some
wine shops that offered several wines from the region
for tasting. To walk into these shops and see the famous
names, such as
Montrachet (pronounced
Mon-ra-chay),
Pommard,
Mersault,
surrounding you is truly inspiring and humbling. The
prices for many of the wines from this region are also
humbling. The most expensive wine I saw was a
1999
Montrachet Grand Cru for 205 euros (It's in
the picture on the right).
After a hard day of tasting wine, you top it off with
a great meal, and of course, wine to go with it. Across
the street from the
Hospices de Beaune Hotel-Dieu
is the
Restaurant Dame Tartine. This
is a typical small, but high quality restaurant that
you find in France. At all tables, you see people taking
their time, enjoying an appetizer, main course, and
dessert. Meals are not meant as fast food here.
For a bit of history, the
Hospices de Beaune
Hotel-Dieu in the centre of Beaune was a hospital
built in the Middle Ages for the poor by
Nicolas
Rolin, Chancellor of Philippe-le-Bon, Duke
of Burgundy. The hospice was also given it's own vineyard
to produce wines which are sold yearly. The 2008 auction
took place Sunday November 16, 2008 in Beaune's covered
market. 544 barrels were to be sold of which 450 barrels
are of red wine and 94 barrels of white wine. For more
information about this yearly wine auction visit this
link.
Across the street from the Hospices is the
Marche
aux Vins, which provides underground wine tasting
tours through their cellars. To find out about the wines
I tasted at the Marche aux Vins, please read my
blog.